The Pros and Cons of a suit:  Bespoke vs. Off the Rack.

By Richmond Truex

When men come into the store and say they need a suit, I will ask them how soon they need it?  In other words, is there enough time to have a suit made?  If the gentlemen has the time, then he would do himself a favor making a suit.  When you get a custom-fit suit, you’re buying a piece of clothing that will feel like a second skin- only better.  Tailored suits not only fit perfectly to the particular contours of your body, they also accentuate your best features while masking the ones you’d prefer to keep hidden.  And whatever fabric he chooses, he will love wearing it.  Now he can wear it to the meetings, conferences, events, parties or galas.  Another benefit of the tailored suit makes a man feel positive and confident.  And when you gain this positive confidence in your profession, you enjoy your work and life.  This attitude spills over into every aspect of your existence being human.

There are two types of suits:  Bespoke or tailored and ready made/ off the rack.  Depending on a man’s measurements, a ready made suit can be altered only so much.  And when altering is not enough, the only option is to have it made.  Altering a garment reveals imperfections in sizing someone on a proportion range.  There are limits to what can be done.  Many variables compound this fact when alterations are not enough.  Rarely does a suit fit well enough to where you just need to cuff the pant.  Many times the sleeves need to be adjusted or the collar lowered.  Have we altered enough for it to fit properly?  And if he has an athletic build, the pants may not fit.  Therefore, bespoke suits take all the guesswork out because you are measuring.

Unusual measurements to account for in a bespoke suit include: sloping shoulders, square shoulders, chest darts, a low shoulder, and shortening the collar. Posture accounts for a head forward, flat chest or round back.  And these details come to light when first measured and sized using a fit coat.  These measurements are a guide for the coats contours.    Only making a suit can you address the critical armhole size and point-to-point.  And if the point-to-point measurement is wrong, then the whole coat is out of balance and will never drape correctly.   Often alterations cannot fix these dimples and problems areas on a garment.  A bespoke suit accounts for all the measurement details. Then upon completion, the bespoke suit will fit correctly.

Furthermore, an off the rack suit is made on an assembly line where quality is low and lacks consistency.  While a bespoke suit is constructed with better quality, materials, and greater attention to details.  The canvas used to shape the garment is of a finer quality.  This results in a better draping suit which will stand the test of time and take more wear and tear.

There’s just no better feeling than putting on a well made bespoke suit after wearing a ill tailored suit.  A well tailored suit highlights your strengths while the ill fitted cannot hide your flaws.  Once you get a bespoke suit, an off the rack suit pales by comparison.  And each time a gentleman gets a suit made, he falls in love with the fit all over again.  He enjoys utilizing it in his wardrobe; he could not bear the thought of going back from a suit he selected and fits impeccably.

And the fun will start when you are picking your details on the suit.  It offers unlimited personalization. Do I want two or three button?  Plain front or pleated pants?  Center vents or side vents on the jacket?  You can select a lining for the coat for the coat in your favorite color, or the best alternate to matching the fabric.  And you can put a unique colored button on the garment to give it a real natty look and feel.  Some of our clients don’t stop there; they’ve thought of peak lapels, outside cash pocket, and surgeon sleeves.  You can do all or none of these detail choices.  However, the more you choose, the more unique the garment and is a better reflection of your personality.

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